"Shit you made" Thread.

The Endless continues...


The hardest part is the "inner spatial cubes", or "storage cubes" that are "bigger on the inside".

I'm doing everything in Base 10 though so it shouldn't be too hard to make.

Unlike existing voxel systems this is a stacked or nesting voxel system with different layers of physics depending on cube size.

You need more than cubes though. The game has material harvesting because if you want WHEELS, well you can make a cube rotor and a cube shaft, but to make a wheel you need to make a machine that makes wheels from harvest materials (plants, minerals, etc).

You also need energy cubes to fuel it and the energy cubes are essentially currency, so it's similar to the refractors in Megaman Legends.

Money is ~literal~ power.

The processor cubes and some cubes will have additional functionality.

Like when you build a replicator machine, it has processor cubes in it, but the processors won't be able to do anything without memory cubes that act like internal recipes.

Meaning you could have a memory cube with a "recipe" to make a wheel and that recipe requires a certain number of processor cubes or certain component pieces, in addition to specific energy requirements and material requirements.

The memory cubes will be upgradable too, which will reduce energy and material requirements.

The memory cubes are upgraded through use. They act like play pretend AI in that, the more you use them, the better they get as a result of learning.

Also I'm thinking... Deformity K>ubes!

Cubes are cubes, but even teeny tiny, they ~look~ like cubes.

So I'm thinking about adding circuit cubes that can alter various aspects of how the cubes look.

Like a Doctor Who style Chameleon Circuit could give your ship, mech, sword, whatever, the ability to cloak!

Concealment Circuits is probably a better name. Or CCs.

More advanced CCs could be use to make rounded edges. Or at least the visual appearance of them; tiny/selective cloaking.

This would make them easily paintable too.

So instead of painting your ship you have paint circuits that control the colors and then you can make custom memory chips for hot swapping colors and styles.

Also, the "mech size" cube is a bit of a misnomer.

By comparison to a player character a mech cube is like 100 centimeters or about 3 feet cubed.

That's not a very big mech.

Because the mech blocks are BUILDING blocks, meaning there are "connection blocks" that make the blocks magnetically lock together.

So that part is less "blueprint" building and more like "Lego building".

But you can still create "mech prints" for "mech blocks" but they aren't inherently restrained to a 10x10x10 environment.

Same thing with the in-game games.

Like you could take any pixel video game and recreate the game within this game sandbox. So it will also have a sort of "flat print" maker, where you can make screen animations.

So the TVs you can make in the game use inner spatial memory cubes to create pixel content.

Pixels within voxels within vector.

I love having all of God's imagination in my head.
 
Zoo time
 
i'm building a gun
i fucked up installing the takedown pins, so waiting on replacements for what i screwed up.
otherwise, this part's pretty much done minus the brace. next up is the upper.

View attachment 29971
View attachment 29972
View attachment 29973
You like the standard grip angle? Magpul K2 grips have a more pistol angle grip, helps keep you from chickenwinging. Maybe something to think about in your next build.

You're going to want all the help you can get if you're firing full auto.

I suggest
opplanet-kynshot-ar-15-5-56-223-sub-sonic-and-300-blackout-hydraulic-recoil-buffer-silver-rb5000l-main.webp
and

Or any 4 port muzzle break. Some are less expensive if that is a limitation. However, you're not buying these things every other month so maybe consider a more thought-out design.

I'd not go less than 12.5 inch because lethality is about out to 70-100yards. You're pushing just over 2600 ft/sec 556 needs 2500 ft/sec to work
Shorter, and you're shooting a 22 magnum. But, this is your gun. Just suggestions and some data to help you along. Take it or leave it.

223-barrel-length-velocity-umc-55-grain-26-to-6-inches.gif


I also recommend a foregrip. As long it's not vertical it's ok. Here's the one I like there are others. This is pretty cheap and doesn't weigh alot. Nice thing is you can use it to push against barriers for further stability.

These look vertical but they're not. I like to mount these "backwards" so I can increase the bite of the grip into my hand. If you preform a proper c-clamp on your rifle your grip locks into the handle.

AREO makes some good stuff I have a couple of uppers from them.


@Illuminati Thanks to Biden I haven't been making/buying anything, I put this together about six months ago. I've got a 1911 I still have to assemble.
DSC_1595.jpg

It's your basic Glock Gen1-3 Clone. It runs pretty good but the lower parts are really cheap so the trigger doesn't reset reliably. But that's an easy fix and about 50 bucks.
 
You like the standard grip angle? Magpul K2 grips have a more pistol angle grip, helps keep you from chickenwinging. Maybe something to think about in your next build.

You're going to want all the help you can get if you're firing full auto.

I suggest
opplanet-kynshot-ar-15-5-56-223-sub-sonic-and-300-blackout-hydraulic-recoil-buffer-silver-rb5000l-main.webp
and

Or any 4 port muzzle break. Some are less expensive if that is a limitation. However, you're not buying these things every other month so maybe consider a more thought-out design.

I'd not go less than 12.5 inch because lethality is about out to 70-100yards. You're pushing just over 2600 ft/sec 556 needs 2500 ft/sec to work
Shorter, and you're shooting a 22 magnum. But, this is your gun. Just suggestions and some data to help you along. Take it or leave it.

View attachment 30515

I also recommend a foregrip. As long it's not vertical it's ok. Here's the one I like there are others. This is pretty cheap and doesn't weigh alot. Nice thing is you can use it to push against barriers for further stability.

These look vertical but they're not. I like to mount these "backwards" so I can increase the bite of the grip into my hand. If you preform a proper c-clamp on your rifle your grip locks into the handle.

AREO makes some good stuff I have a couple of uppers from them.
Thanks, I'll take these in consideration. It's literally just a slow process as I get money, I buy parts I can budget out.
still thinking whether to make this m4 spec or make an AR "uzi" with a 7.5" barrel.
 
Thanks, I'll take these in consideration. It's literally just a slow process as I get money, I buy parts I can budget out.
still thinking whether to make this m4 spec or make an AR "uzi" with a 7.5" barrel.
I have two 10.5's They are fun but they are not really practical. They are toys and they stay mostly in the safe.

Nice thing about AR's is they are so modular. So the 7 inch, which is kinda dangerous, not a lot of real estate, people have gripped the shorty too close to the muzzle and burned themselves. Plus, HUGE fireball out the end of the muzzle. Definitely get a good flash hider. It will limit the muzzle blast a bit.
But then you can get a duty length upper 14.5 and longer and have a proper defensive rifle.

My duty rifle is a 14.5 Daniel Defense. Daniel Defense has dropped their prices due to lawsuits. Basically indestructible.

But for budget builds Areo is a great option. Get a cheap bolt, $50, charging handle $15 and upgrade them later. Keep a watch for sales. I got several Wilson Combat BCG's for about $150 when they were on sale. An ambi charging handle is about 50-75 bucks.

If you have any questions feel free to ask, I've bought shit tones of AR products many bad so feel free to learn from my retardedness. Good luck and pics of the build when you're done.

what optic are you going to go with. Stay away from the el-cheapo amazon stuff. It will lose zero and then you'll end up buying something of quality. I tried this. When through a number of 50-100-150 optics and finally called myself a retard and plunked money down on EoTech and ACOGS.

Though there is a good chinese scope, Arken. I have one on my 6.5 Creedmore. I've got my 1800 Horus on my 338 and asides the oddly oversized turrets on the Arken, it's as good and in some cases better than my Horus. Better less color shift than the Horus.
Overton Windex does a few vids on this scope.
 
I found it!

screwdriver.png


I used the lathe to make that one section of the handle near the base where the metal is inserted.

The handle was already fluted like that. I did the work at the bottom of it.

I also used oxyacetylene, a hammer and a grinder to turn the metal shaft into a useable screwdriver.
 
I have two 10.5's They are fun but they are not really practical. They are toys and they stay mostly in the safe.

Nice thing about AR's is they are so modular. So the 7 inch, which is kinda dangerous, not a lot of real estate, people have gripped the shorty too close to the muzzle and burned themselves. Plus, HUGE fireball out the end of the muzzle. Definitely get a good flash hider. It will limit the muzzle blast a bit.
But then you can get a duty length upper 14.5 and longer and have a proper defensive rifle.

My duty rifle is a 14.5 Daniel Defense. Daniel Defense has dropped their prices due to lawsuits. Basically indestructible.

But for budget builds Areo is a great option. Get a cheap bolt, $50, charging handle $15 and upgrade them later. Keep a watch for sales. I got several Wilson Combat BCG's for about $150 when they were on sale. An ambi charging handle is about 50-75 bucks.

If you have any questions feel free to ask, I've bought shit tones of AR products many bad so feel free to learn from my retardedness. Good luck and pics of the build when you're done.

what optic are you going to go with. Stay away from the el-cheapo amazon stuff. It will lose zero and then you'll end up buying something of quality. I tried this. When through a number of 50-100-150 optics and finally called myself a retard and plunked money down on EoTech and ACOGS.

Though there is a good chinese scope, Arken. I have one on my 6.5 Creedmore. I've got my 1800 Horus on my 338 and asides the oddly oversized turrets on the Arken, it's as good and in some cases better than my Horus. Better less color shift than the Horus.
Overton Windex does a few vids on this scope.
Diaperfag is gone so you're free to post any boomer projects.
 
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