The simplest autoloader design to date is the open bolt SMG.
Personal story: when I was in prison for masturbating to child pornography, I patented my own custom KG-9 prototype just using things laying around the facility. You simply take some plastic scraps from the trash bin on the rock (be it water bottles, peanut butter/jelly jars, ajax bottles, etc), and you mold/shape/chamber the components for each other using a hot glue gun from hobby craft, using precise screw-ins for the barrels and endcap/upper receiver, then you rubber band the upper/lower receiver together to simulate it being shot off, so you'll be able to test it during development, since say, soap bars for instance aren't flexible and can break (just using one magazine and one bullet to copy from). Then make your own sandbox, be it the ground outside or a cardboard box using wet dirt from the yard w/ two trash bags stuffed inside it, and you take a stack of steel cell mirror plates (the same ones they use to make shanks out of) (you can test if a metal is any good by sticking a magnet from one of those canteen mirrors or an earphone magnet to see if it'll stick - if it does that means the metal is iron or iron-based, if not that means the metal's no good) and a homemade candle (made from a bottom half soda can w/ vaseline and a shoestring dipped in baby oil, lit w/ a wick) and you start to heat the steel plates up until they start to drip and melt into the impressions made with the plastic molds, and use the metal parts for components after they dry and harden. For making the springs, just use coca-cola to weaken them (like that scene from the movie shanghai nights w/ jackie chan and owen wilson in it where jackie breaks off a wooden chair leg, pisses on a shirt and wraps the chair leg inbetween two iron cell bars and ties it taut before applying torque to bend the bars inwards to escape - the acidity corrodes/weakens the metal). The front "shooting" barrel screws into the back"receiving" barrel.
The front barrel is unrifled because you don't have the inventory to reliably do that behind prison walls. The back barrel screws into the endcap. The back barrel holds the bolt + spring + spring bars assembly, held in place w/ hooks and nipples going between the back bolt and front endcap. The spring bar pops it back and forth at the right stand off distance from the magazine, using bolt knobs to each side of it latched in place inside grooves in the back barrel to keep swing and momentum without falling through. The bottom of the bolt pushes each round front of center, wedging it into the breech, returns back, taps it with the striker pin into the breech block, igniting the powder propellamt, shooting the round off, and you can cycle the whole magazine with the single pull of a trigger if you wanted to because it's fully-automatic. You have two long rectangular-shaped slots in the back barrel - one on right side to align with hole in upper receiver to allow the rounds to go out via inertia, the other one at the bottom, to allow insertion of drop hammer mechanism and magazine insert. Then endcap screws into back barrel through screws in upper receiver, but it fits in snugly to avoid wobbling (and you have to measure the whole gun out for 9mm/.380 ACP diameter, because anything above that is too heavy and below is too small to do anything, so bone-breaker rounds that don't leave exit wounds either ontop of it). Then at the front end of the upper receiver, you screw in your brakes that you drilled the holes for using your hand drill from your maintenance job, to avoid meltdowns under rapidfire actions, like a Draco would and now you've gotten the upper receiver established!
For the lower receiver, fit a groove at the bottom of the lower receiver to snap your backpull ring and spring style trigger mechanism, with a trigger/sear ring that you JB weld/spider web in place over the front of three smaller, thick spring coils so that when you pull the trigger back through a hole inside trigger guard part of outer frame, the plate willl close in the one at the back, pop out the one at the front, using the bigger spring coils to the front and back as a two-way safety switch, pull nack the horizontal facing iron spring bar, cock down the vertical facing spring bar going down through an open spring loop, and that'll cock down the cross-shaped hammer bar using two hooks connected to the arms, and that'll let loose of the bolt to load, fire and extract each shot under rapidfire action. There'll also be a wall separating the hammer spring (which is softer to allow ease of pull and JB welded/spider webbed to the bottom of lower receiver) to hold the springs upright, and the hammer/bolt are measured at precise enough dimensios to allow the hammer to catch the bolt and pop it back at any moment during firing, in case you need to hold your fire. The back barrel should also be a perfect fit for the bolt. Whwn you release the trigger, the front smaller spring loop will fold back inside iron trigger/sear ring, and that'll push the horizontal facing spring bar back in a forward "stabbing" motion and raise the upward facing spring bar to close the bolt. I'll gove the upper receiver a half cylindrical shape at top ontop a 3D rectangular frame to accomodate brakes better (although you could just make it more rectangular). You also have some gap inside the impressions made in lower receiver to allow trigger/sear ring to snap back and forth to avoid clanking with the trigger guard on frame (you also might want to set the bolt knobs a bit to avoid this).
Then for the magazine well in the lower receiver, it just consists of grooved notches on both sides to allow the 3D trapezoid-shaped clicker plates to stick out and hold the magazine in place using tight coil-up springs you JB welded/spider webbed in place (note if using spider webs, you can just whip them between the two layers and it'll hold - no need to melt them down or anything).
For the magazines, just make it a 40 round twin stack design bottomfeeder type design magazine. To do this, measure the top part (where the cupped "lipped" edges are at) be just loose enough to allow wedging through 9mm/.380 rounds in (since you can shoot a 9mm through a .380 and vice versa) but still hold it in from the top. Then to push the rounds up, use a follower the elevated at one side (called a "follower") and an accordion-shaped mainspring to push them up (made the same way as the other springs) JB welded/spider webbed in place between flat piece that goes underneath elevated twin stack follower to accomodate two rows of bullets, and the other end going to bottom magazine plate that you attach to bottom of each magazine.
For ammo, use brass from doorknobs/plumbing pipe sleeves from your maintenance job fixing the chases between cells and such, and lead from plumbing pipes for the bullet/casing molds all copied from one magazine/one bullet mold, measured with precision using tape measure, and since it's centerfire, less accuracy too (plus unrifled, so we're talking accuracy only at 10-15 ft tops). The bullet has a circular notch near the bottom and the top of the inner brass casing has a half-triangular shaped edge to wedge the bullets through and lock them in place, using red phosphorus from phosphorus matches you smuggled as tge shock sensitive priming propellant (warning this stuff is real strong, so only use a litttle!). Also, cool each bullet/casing mold off in ice water bath made w/ homemade cooler (made from styrofoam boxes scotch taped and plastic wrapped together in trash bags, the white ones we use, but with added salt on it to prevent it from melting and to keep it cool) and drying it off w/ dry towel to prevent premature detonation, and that's it for that. Also, for the clickers, use iron clicker plates w/ tight spring near the top of both sodes of the magazines to go inside the inner frame of the magazines w/ hook-shaped latch-ins (like those door hooks you hang clothes on kinda with opposite accomodations w/ open spaces to allow limited movement so they can close in and out, not up and down).
The finished result should reflect the environment om the surface of the gun, like a mirror. You could even wax/polish it w/ vaseline and a dried washcloth. That'll give it a 3D sparkle like a high-refresh rate HDTV monitor! For holster, you could just use trash bags w/ modified slips for gun (pistol grip + mag welll, bottomfeeder necause sideloader/toploader would be too awkward to conceal carry) and slips on nack (up to at least 5 extra magazines) fitted inside pockets in an over-the-shoulder back holster for better concealability (underneath uniform/jacket). Plus ramrod stick for clearing the feed in the event of it jamming up (made from fitted-up broom handle). And that's basically it!
Dry the vaseloine with a commissary lamp too, btw. Just some things nbabby learned from prison experience (I promise, I'll never do it again).
ALSO, the reason a rimfire won't work is because those require you to screw the bullet over the casing, snd if something is not perfect or precise, you're only liable to blow yourself up. Centerfire is safer to work with.
It's called a "blicky". So now when you're in prison and some nigger approaches you with a knife saying "was you just talkin shit... about... MY FUCKIN NIGGA ERDOĞAN?!" you can shoot their ass. As for hiding it, you can stick it inside the hole in the hollowed out vents (people just take their locks and smack the walls out - contraband rarely searches the cells, only when somebody wigs out usually). As for swapping it from facility-to-facility, just do it through the CO you're fucking because they're whores. Just tuck it in your holster underneath your shirt and jacket and walk around with it on the rock or maybe on the way to OTRs depending on which yard you're on.
Personal story: when I was in prison for masturbating to child pornography, I patented my own custom KG-9 prototype just using things laying around the facility. You simply take some plastic scraps from the trash bin on the rock (be it water bottles, peanut butter/jelly jars, ajax bottles, etc), and you mold/shape/chamber the components for each other using a hot glue gun from hobby craft, using precise screw-ins for the barrels and endcap/upper receiver, then you rubber band the upper/lower receiver together to simulate it being shot off, so you'll be able to test it during development, since say, soap bars for instance aren't flexible and can break (just using one magazine and one bullet to copy from). Then make your own sandbox, be it the ground outside or a cardboard box using wet dirt from the yard w/ two trash bags stuffed inside it, and you take a stack of steel cell mirror plates (the same ones they use to make shanks out of) (you can test if a metal is any good by sticking a magnet from one of those canteen mirrors or an earphone magnet to see if it'll stick - if it does that means the metal is iron or iron-based, if not that means the metal's no good) and a homemade candle (made from a bottom half soda can w/ vaseline and a shoestring dipped in baby oil, lit w/ a wick) and you start to heat the steel plates up until they start to drip and melt into the impressions made with the plastic molds, and use the metal parts for components after they dry and harden. For making the springs, just use coca-cola to weaken them (like that scene from the movie shanghai nights w/ jackie chan and owen wilson in it where jackie breaks off a wooden chair leg, pisses on a shirt and wraps the chair leg inbetween two iron cell bars and ties it taut before applying torque to bend the bars inwards to escape - the acidity corrodes/weakens the metal). The front "shooting" barrel screws into the back"receiving" barrel.
The front barrel is unrifled because you don't have the inventory to reliably do that behind prison walls. The back barrel screws into the endcap. The back barrel holds the bolt + spring + spring bars assembly, held in place w/ hooks and nipples going between the back bolt and front endcap. The spring bar pops it back and forth at the right stand off distance from the magazine, using bolt knobs to each side of it latched in place inside grooves in the back barrel to keep swing and momentum without falling through. The bottom of the bolt pushes each round front of center, wedging it into the breech, returns back, taps it with the striker pin into the breech block, igniting the powder propellamt, shooting the round off, and you can cycle the whole magazine with the single pull of a trigger if you wanted to because it's fully-automatic. You have two long rectangular-shaped slots in the back barrel - one on right side to align with hole in upper receiver to allow the rounds to go out via inertia, the other one at the bottom, to allow insertion of drop hammer mechanism and magazine insert. Then endcap screws into back barrel through screws in upper receiver, but it fits in snugly to avoid wobbling (and you have to measure the whole gun out for 9mm/.380 ACP diameter, because anything above that is too heavy and below is too small to do anything, so bone-breaker rounds that don't leave exit wounds either ontop of it). Then at the front end of the upper receiver, you screw in your brakes that you drilled the holes for using your hand drill from your maintenance job, to avoid meltdowns under rapidfire actions, like a Draco would and now you've gotten the upper receiver established!
For the lower receiver, fit a groove at the bottom of the lower receiver to snap your backpull ring and spring style trigger mechanism, with a trigger/sear ring that you JB weld/spider web in place over the front of three smaller, thick spring coils so that when you pull the trigger back through a hole inside trigger guard part of outer frame, the plate willl close in the one at the back, pop out the one at the front, using the bigger spring coils to the front and back as a two-way safety switch, pull nack the horizontal facing iron spring bar, cock down the vertical facing spring bar going down through an open spring loop, and that'll cock down the cross-shaped hammer bar using two hooks connected to the arms, and that'll let loose of the bolt to load, fire and extract each shot under rapidfire action. There'll also be a wall separating the hammer spring (which is softer to allow ease of pull and JB welded/spider webbed to the bottom of lower receiver) to hold the springs upright, and the hammer/bolt are measured at precise enough dimensios to allow the hammer to catch the bolt and pop it back at any moment during firing, in case you need to hold your fire. The back barrel should also be a perfect fit for the bolt. Whwn you release the trigger, the front smaller spring loop will fold back inside iron trigger/sear ring, and that'll push the horizontal facing spring bar back in a forward "stabbing" motion and raise the upward facing spring bar to close the bolt. I'll gove the upper receiver a half cylindrical shape at top ontop a 3D rectangular frame to accomodate brakes better (although you could just make it more rectangular). You also have some gap inside the impressions made in lower receiver to allow trigger/sear ring to snap back and forth to avoid clanking with the trigger guard on frame (you also might want to set the bolt knobs a bit to avoid this).
Then for the magazine well in the lower receiver, it just consists of grooved notches on both sides to allow the 3D trapezoid-shaped clicker plates to stick out and hold the magazine in place using tight coil-up springs you JB welded/spider webbed in place (note if using spider webs, you can just whip them between the two layers and it'll hold - no need to melt them down or anything).
For the magazines, just make it a 40 round twin stack design bottomfeeder type design magazine. To do this, measure the top part (where the cupped "lipped" edges are at) be just loose enough to allow wedging through 9mm/.380 rounds in (since you can shoot a 9mm through a .380 and vice versa) but still hold it in from the top. Then to push the rounds up, use a follower the elevated at one side (called a "follower") and an accordion-shaped mainspring to push them up (made the same way as the other springs) JB welded/spider webbed in place between flat piece that goes underneath elevated twin stack follower to accomodate two rows of bullets, and the other end going to bottom magazine plate that you attach to bottom of each magazine.
For ammo, use brass from doorknobs/plumbing pipe sleeves from your maintenance job fixing the chases between cells and such, and lead from plumbing pipes for the bullet/casing molds all copied from one magazine/one bullet mold, measured with precision using tape measure, and since it's centerfire, less accuracy too (plus unrifled, so we're talking accuracy only at 10-15 ft tops). The bullet has a circular notch near the bottom and the top of the inner brass casing has a half-triangular shaped edge to wedge the bullets through and lock them in place, using red phosphorus from phosphorus matches you smuggled as tge shock sensitive priming propellant (warning this stuff is real strong, so only use a litttle!). Also, cool each bullet/casing mold off in ice water bath made w/ homemade cooler (made from styrofoam boxes scotch taped and plastic wrapped together in trash bags, the white ones we use, but with added salt on it to prevent it from melting and to keep it cool) and drying it off w/ dry towel to prevent premature detonation, and that's it for that. Also, for the clickers, use iron clicker plates w/ tight spring near the top of both sodes of the magazines to go inside the inner frame of the magazines w/ hook-shaped latch-ins (like those door hooks you hang clothes on kinda with opposite accomodations w/ open spaces to allow limited movement so they can close in and out, not up and down).
The finished result should reflect the environment om the surface of the gun, like a mirror. You could even wax/polish it w/ vaseline and a dried washcloth. That'll give it a 3D sparkle like a high-refresh rate HDTV monitor! For holster, you could just use trash bags w/ modified slips for gun (pistol grip + mag welll, bottomfeeder necause sideloader/toploader would be too awkward to conceal carry) and slips on nack (up to at least 5 extra magazines) fitted inside pockets in an over-the-shoulder back holster for better concealability (underneath uniform/jacket). Plus ramrod stick for clearing the feed in the event of it jamming up (made from fitted-up broom handle). And that's basically it!
Dry the vaseloine with a commissary lamp too, btw. Just some things nbabby learned from prison experience (I promise, I'll never do it again).
ALSO, the reason a rimfire won't work is because those require you to screw the bullet over the casing, snd if something is not perfect or precise, you're only liable to blow yourself up. Centerfire is safer to work with.
It's called a "blicky". So now when you're in prison and some nigger approaches you with a knife saying "was you just talkin shit... about... MY FUCKIN NIGGA ERDOĞAN?!" you can shoot their ass. As for hiding it, you can stick it inside the hole in the hollowed out vents (people just take their locks and smack the walls out - contraband rarely searches the cells, only when somebody wigs out usually). As for swapping it from facility-to-facility, just do it through the CO you're fucking because they're whores. Just tuck it in your holster underneath your shirt and jacket and walk around with it on the rock or maybe on the way to OTRs depending on which yard you're on.
